Ja.
Except they have no eraser. What good is the black tip??
You use a click eraser or a normal block eraser.
Only filthy casuals suffer one at the end of the pencil.
5B hardness
This image perfectly stretches in the thread display. Incredibly satisfying.
6, cause it’s a gel pen. For a pencil, not really bothered by these options…probably 2.
6 is a mechanical pencil.
- ole reliable
Yeah, 2 if I need a traditional pencil, and 5 for everything else
My fidgeting while I was in middle school led me to break every kind of mechanical pencil I used, except for 5. I forced myself to only use those in high school and college so I would always have a reliable pencil.
I already own that exact some Kuru Toga, so this one’s a no-brainer.
Anyone who deliberately picks the Sharpwriter or the Bic needs keeping an eye on; we need to keep those kinds of people on a list.
I think people use the sharpwriter because US standardized testing requires a #2 pencil and the sharpwriters are cheap.
Same for Bic
The bics also have nice colors. And you can often find one left behind on the desk from last class.
it‘s going to be a very long list, lol
Two. My experience with mechanical pencils is that they’re often unreliable and a waste of time. I hate having to reload my pencil, I hate when it breaks if you accidentally make the tip longer than it should be, I hate when you accidentally put one more in the pencil and it gets clogged, I hate having to carry refills all the time…
Just hand over the regular pencil and a decent sharpener.
If you feel they are unreliable, it may just be that you aren’t using good ones. I use 3 on a regular basis (for Japanese) and never have issues with feeding or lead breaking; I also only have to refill it every few weeks.
I’ve had the same mechanical pencil for ten years. It’s comfortable, reliable, easy to reload, but if I had to choose one for the rest of my life, I’d still go with the traditional wood/graphite pencil. It’s cheap, it’s everywhere, it’s durable, and not a great loss if you lose it.
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Same, an actual good quality, properly made and assembled mechanical pencil will just keep going and going, and if you treat it well, you never need to replace it.
Kinda like a decent quality safety razor.
All you gotta do is treat it right and replace the razors/graphite, nets out to saving money after probably a month or two of decent use.
I got one because I was intrigued by its lead rotation, but I found that it really didn’t rotate the lead enough while I wrote. I kept having to rotate the barrel manually to keep a thin line like I do for every other mechanical pencil, and then would get annoyed every time the clip came around to brush my hand. I’ve been wondering if I’m doing something wrong, or if Japanese just uses more shorter strokes. Do you also like it when writing English?
It also always ends mid-word/stroke, and you start etching the paper with the metal end. Very annoying.
Since I switched to using 0.9 mm, I almost never break a lead unless I drop it onto a hard floor; it even holds up to some aggressive tapping. Consequently, I hardly ever have to refill. I also never worry about the point snapping or stabbing when tossed loose into a bag, or keeping a sharpener on hand.
Back at my school in the 90’s you just bought a 10 pack of the cheap black Bic mechanical pencils for like $3 (pic #5) and you were set for the year if you didn’t lose too many. They never really broke and you didn’t have to refill them if you didn’t want to. They also never clogged and if you weren’t an idiot you didn’t try to use too much lead length to where it would break off.
They were simple and easy and always sharp.
“Decent sharpener” aka box cutters.
On the topic of sharpeners, those battery powered pressure sharpeners are satisfying as fuck. They’re shit and invariably snap the nib, but they’re the sharpening equivalent of shoving a Q-tip in your ear and having a good rake about.
Or if you’re all about the procrastination, spending a few minutes every lesson at the classroom sharpener like this one brings back the nostalgia:
The pull out drawer for shavings is top tier.
Nothing beats these though:
Just gotta use them over the waste basket.
Unreliable? I have two Staedtler Mars Micro pens I bought a good 20 years ago and they both work perfectly.
Plus a good ol Dixon Ticonderoga can write on stuff other than paper. About the only time I use a pencil is when doing carpentry and mechanical ones just snap.
When I was doing roofing the pica dry mechanical pencils made things so much better. Sure a pencil works good on wood, but what about when I have to mark gray sheet metal? You need something that comes with different colors.
That’s what sharpies are for
Bonus points for #2 being #2
#8 all the way.
If I had to do sketch design drafting with a pen or wooden pencil in college and not a 0.5 mechanical, I would have probably become a school shooter.
I’ve been using Zebra pens and pencils almost exclusively for the last 20 years. My only complaint with the pencil is its eraser. If you need to erase something small it’s fantastic, but I always keep a separate eraser handy.
Honestly that’s a complaint I have about nearly every pencil, not just the zebra. They’re almost always hard and smudgy because the pencil has been sitting out either in a warehouse or on an office supply shelf for like 5 years.
I’d rather bring my own hi-poly brick eraser, or even better, a hi-poly retractable eraser that is a lot easier to control and keep a fresh, smudge-free surface on.Twist-erase 3 is bae
Yeah, #8 and it’s not even close for me.
Agreed, I like both their mechanical pencils and pens, even if visually they are a bit too close.
My choice would’ve been 3 or 1 just by how they feel in my hand, but I got a new .3 Kuru Toga and god it’s too smooth for me not to choose 4
I have #3 and the KH. The KH stays on my desk, but #3’s in my bag and goes everywhere because it has a fully retractable sleeve and I don’t have to worry about bending or breaking it.
0.3mm, I love to write that thin but I can’t stop breaking the lead. Agreed that the kuru toga is the best in this lineup though, I’ve had one for most of the last decade.
Do I get to choose my lead size?
Yes
3 with .9mm lead
Ticonderoga. Hey if the lead still breaks at all from any of the others, it’s not worth it. Least with 2, you lose the point.
How about none of the above? But I kind of like those triangular pencils.
Come on, where is the Pentel P200 series?
Edit: I’ll take the koh-i-noor 2mm of available
Hiding in the shadow of #1
There are no drafting pencils.
what about now bruv?
déja vu intensifies
Listed as a clutch pencil. Have been calling it a drafting pencil since like 2003 when I first used one.
It’s the only type of pencil I use outside of woodworking. And if forced to choose, I go with that.
- Ticonderoga is the Cadillac of pencils.
Can I introduce you to Blackwings? They write so well and the eraser is a little bigger. Is it a lot if hype? Yeah probably, but its also just a good pencil. It’s like the Rolls Royce of wood pencils
Blackwings feel like writing with a pen it’s absurd. Plus they look great
Gimme one of these bad boys and utility razor.
Reminds me of when I had to write a physics exam in university and it required a pencil for the Scantron cards. I basically never carried pencils so when my pencil tip broke I had to grab my utility knife out of my backpack and sharpen it to continue writing my exam.
That’s vietnam level shit going on there lmao.
Got in trouble in school once for using one of those way back in the day. Dad was a construction supervisor so they were frequently lying around.
I prefer 2mm mechanical pencils instead of the 0.5mm ones.
