I often hear, “You should never cheap out on a good office chair, shoes, underpants, backpack etc…” but what are some items that you would feel OK to cheap out on?
This can by anything from items such as: expensive clothing brands to general groceries.
Socks. Personally I am a change every 2-3 days kind of guy.
(Sorry)
Nah this ain’t it for me. Darn tough socks for life
Yea I made a joke on ops cost. Go to their profile and check their last posts.
Need to change socks every day.
Oh it’s that guy! Lol thanks for pointing it out
Generic meds vs brand meds.
Brands pay a lot for branding, and thus charge more. The formulas are moderated and regulated by the FDA, so unless you enjoy paying for ads, get the generic.
I’ve got a family member with a rare allergy. I’ve found that sometimes one or the other will have the allergen in it, but it’s not consistent between generic/branded. Always check the ingredients and never assume it’s exactly the same just because they have the same active ingredients
So you’re saying that your advice doesn’t apply to 99.9999999% of people? Got it, thanks
Someone elaborating on your advice is not an attack on you.
Allergies are not an uncommon thing
Unfortunately, generics can vary wildly in efficacy & quality. As @Aradina pointed out, sometimes the encapsulation is different (e.g. extended release coating vs. standard release), but also the form of the drug can differ (e.g. capsule, tablet, softgel, chewable, etc), chemical by-products from different manufacturing techniques may be present in different amounts, and different manufacturing processes can also yield different [chiral enantiomer] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chirality_(chemistry)#Manifestations_of_chirality) ratios in the end product.
The “same” drug from different manufacturers may vary in effectiveness / side-effects, and brand-name drugs aren’t always the best formulations for most patients.
Generics are required to be as efficacious as name brand in the US.
I do not understand your point on encapsulation and the form of the drug. Name brands can have different encapsulations and forms within their own line. That has nothing to do with it being name brand vs. generic.
Was confused by their post too. Not to mention, generics typically say that they’re trying to replicate xyz extended release or xyz extra strength.
Generics are required to be as efficacious as name brand in the US.
Let me introduce you to the way the FDA actually works.
Caveat: you aren’t super sensitive to extra/less medicine. The tolerances for generic are much wider.
Technically no. The tolerances should be more or less the same (generally 90%-110% label claim for the active ingredient) . Manufacturers aim for 100% and generally hit that target (or get very close to it).
The bioavailability could be different though - if you are doing a bioequivalence trial for generic VS brand, the generic would have to be between 80% - 120%. This difference is generally a result of the starches, fillers, and other stuff that may be in a generic formulation.
Same net effect as your comment (wider tolerances), but there is a bit more nuance.
Extra info is great. Thanks for adding to the discussion!
This isn’t always true. The content has to be the same, but the delivery mechanism can be different in generics as long as testing shows similar results
Generic concerta for example, often sucks
Drugstores here (Denmark) are required by law to ask if you’d like to buy the cheaper alternative to brand medicines. They will often change from week to week so a typical order at the drug store would be “I need this” - “I’ll grab it for you but are you OK with cheapest alternative?”
Fashion clothes, if you’re getting something that you’ll wear for one summer and then never again then Primark is fine.
Salt, sugar, most herbs and spices, it’s all the same stuff regardless of brands
Some snacks, often crisps are the same Aldi own brand as Walkers or whatever, or they’re perfectly good. Yes we all want some kettle chips sometimes but it’s all good, same for jelly sweets, a lot of chocolate, etc.
Hobbies for beginners, if you want to take up knitting then start with a cheap kit and upgrade as you get more serious.
Fashion clothes
Better yet: buy long-lasting stuff that is ethically produced. Primark is notoriously bad in this regard — but most fast fashion stores are.
It depends how much you plan to use it. If you’re going to wear something a few times then a long lasting piece of clothing is wasteful.
Hobbies for beginners, if you want to take up knitting then start with a cheap kit and upgrade as you get more serious.
This is the big one. If you’re starting a new hobby, it’s easy to fall into the trap of buying loads of expensive kit because it’s shiny and new. Buy the cheaper versions first and learn what you actually need. If you need to upgrade then, at least you know what to buy.
Obviously this doesn’t apply to safety kit 👍
Absolutely, and you’ll know what you like. I started walking a few years back and bought expensive shoes for my first walk but realised I like ankle support so only 6 months later I had to buy expensive boots.
I find the opposite with some hobbies. If you buy a cheap acoustic guitar it’s going to be horrible to play and will probably sound crap. That might discourage you from continuing. More expensive guitars have a much better resale value too, so you’d probably be out of pocket for less if you buy a nice one and sell it again than if you bought a crap one and no one else wanted to buy it.
Nah, buy a used guitar for $50 and try it out. Most people trying out new hobbies give up after a short time.
I began learning on a cheap acoustic that made it incredibly hard to play, but I never knew any better.
Many years later, I was given a nicer acoustic and I realized how much easier it was to play. Suddenly the F chord wasn’t such a monster to hold down.
I feel like the cheap acoustic absolutely stunted my learning, and possibly caused me to pick up bad habits. But I still have it cause it was my first guitar and kinda like the sound of it. But holy shit, it’s still hard for me to play it
I kinda agree. Knitting is the go-to for this advice, which makes sense. It gets crazy expensive crazy fast. But starting out with shitty yarn and needles makes the whole thing miserable. Same with a lot of other crafting and baking. Using low quality materials results in an unsatisfying product, and low quality tools make for an unsatisfying learning process.
I generally recommend letting yourself buy something nice-but-not-luxury that you’re excited about, but keeping those initial investments really limited in scope. Buy one nice(ish) pair of needles and just enough nice(ish) yarn to make a specific project. You don’t want to go broke for something you end up hating, but you do want to be able to know whether you hate the actual hobby or you just hate doing that hobby badly.
I like the cheap Ferraris
Oh, you mean the new mid-engine Corvettes?
Free computer operating systems are great these days.
I regularly spend hours designing electronics to be cheaper. Not worse – just cheaper. Electronic components sometimes vary in price by two orders of magnitude for the same performance, so it’s worth cramming datasheets in your head as a professional or hobbyist.
For tools, I’ve found good midrange Chinese brands, and stuck to them. I could never afford things like Tektronix and so on.
I don’t strictly require clothing to be cheap, but I do require it to be fungible – this works out similarly though. When I find something that’s good value for money and looks good, I buy a bunch and rotate them. That way I don’t have to think about what to wear, and it always looks decent.
I also prefer cheap laptops. I don’t need a supercomputer to work. When I do need a supercomputer, I rent one from google cloud for a few dollars an hour.
I realise it’s the opposite of what you’re asking, but:
Honestly it doesn’t really matter what it is, if it’s something you are going to rely on, don’t cheap out on it if you can afford not to.
Pretty much every non-consumable product category has a low end of cheap shit that is not worth anyone’s money.
Also, and this only really applies to big electrical items: if you can be bothered, find someone who repairs the kind of thing you’re trying to buy and ask them what the best made brands and models are. They are the people that will know better than anyone else what is built to last and what is built to be replaced when the warranty expires.
Honestly it doesn’t really matter what it is, if it’s something you are going to rely on, don’t cheap out on it if you can afford not to.
But that’s the whole point of this post. Pointing out situations where this logic doesn’t hold up. And there are for sure situations where it doesn’t. The expensive version of some things really aren’t worth the extra money at all.
There’s a price to quality/value/utility bell curve to be identified for everything basically and even if some expensive (for example 3x priced) thing is higher quality than the cheap version that costs 1/3 the price, it very well may not at all by any measure be 3x as good/reliable/etc.
Oh yeah, I’m not saying always go for the high end, mid range is often perfectly fine. I’ll highlight I’m talking about non-consumable products which you will rely on.
If it’s something consumable, the low-mid range often has minimal practical variation due to market forces. If it’s not something you’re going to rely on, you don’t need to care too much if it’s gonna break itself or whatever you’re using it for.
Excuse the tautology, but anything you’re relying on, needs to be reliable. If the low end is reliable enough for that, market forces unfortunately dictate that a worse version must be made for cheaper, because that it-doesn’t-need-to-be-reliable demographic is not currently being saturated.
It’s kinda away from my original point, but it’s also very important—if we can afford it, we should be buying the longest lasting versions of everything we need, we generate an unreasonable amount of waste currently due to the proliferation of planned obsolescence and disposable consumerism. It’s not a bargain in the long term if we turn the planet into an oven.
The whole point is that “value for money” is not constant across products or kinds of products. The post is asking to optimize value while minimizing cost. It is a reasonable enough question to have legitimate answers.
Buy used stuff and learn by doing. Computer upgrades, smartphone repairs, cars to some extent and a ton of other stuff
feel OK to cheap out on?
This can by anything from items such as: expensive clothing
??
If you live in an area with a store like a dollar store/tree/general, getting snack foods from there is cheaper than going to a normal grocery store like Walmart. At least it is where I live.
I don’t know if it’s changed prices in other places with these types of stores, but at $1.25 for generic thin mint cookies, that isn’t a terrible deal at all if you ask me.
Alcohol that you are supplying at an event. You should always have a good case of beer or wine, or spirits, or the appropriate refreshment for your honored guests, but anything beyond 1st/2nd round should be the cheapest hooch on the planet and it should run out fast. Every social gathering seems to attract booze hounds that will suck you dry, no need to pay premium dollar for their habit.
From my experience so far most things in life can be found cheap, moderate price and expensively priced. However there’s a point of diminishing returns on your investment ie after that point you could spend loads for marginal gains. Find this point see where on the graph you can afford it.
Somebody on lemmy shared this and opened my eyes: https://youtu.be/_rBO8neWw04
TLDW; buy detergent power for your dish washer and fill both holes. Cheaper and wayyyy better cleaning prowess.
Which holes?
See video but the ones wheee you put the detergent pack
Mascara. I’ve spent $20+ dollars a few times for some high-end Sephora brands, but I’ve never thought they were any better than the $8 Maybelline I can get at the grocery store.
Things which are commodity items, such as sugar, all-purpose flour, etc. I buy store brand. The main difference is marketing.
Oh, here’s one: Power tools. Yeah I know, I know. But…
here’s a Porter-Cable branded 6-inch jointer on sale for $365 at time of writing.
Here’s a Craftsman branded jointer being sold for $299.
Here’s a Wen branded jointer for $241.
Look at the three of them. They bear a striking resemblance, don’t they? Makes sense for the Porter Cable/Craftsman ones, both brands are currently owned by Stanley, Black and Decker…but Wen has nothing to do with them, yet they’re selling the same fuggin’ jointer. Admittedly without the speed control, but what do you need a speed control on a jointer for?
It’s the same tool made in the same factory in China, the cost difference is what logo you’re willing to pay for.
At minimum the cheap ones have lower QA tolerances on components. Sometimes they straight up swap in shittier components (eg: plastic instead of metal, etc).
Not saying you always need the most expensive option when choosing power tools, but looks same != same.
I agree. For power tools, especially where decent accuracy is key like it is with a jointer, definitely more of a “do your research, price is not equal to quality,” not “you can do fine with any cheap one.”
A rule that I stole for tools is to buy a used or cheap one. If it breaks I buy the better version. If it don’t break then I don’t need it at all.
yeah thats a great stategy. Not sure where you are but in Europe, Aldi and Lidl have the notorious “center isle” where one can buy hand and bench tools, all the way up to band saws.
I broke my shitty center isle heat gun and now have a makita, outgrew my butane soldering iron and now have a webber, but I’m still rocking my center isle reciprecating saw and circular saw cause they work just fine and I dont use them enough.
We have the aldi centre isle in Australia as well! 😀
Harbor Freight first. If it breaks then Festool.
Just kidding. I can’t afford Festool. If the Hercules breaks I get Makita. So far I haven’t had one break. Though I probably need to get the corded circular saw because even the best battery ones choke on wet treated boards.
In the US, DeWalt and Milwaukee are tradesman-grade tools if you get the 18V-20V versions. But I agree that the average person can buy any Ryobi or Harbor Freight special and get by fine.
Nonstick pan for eggs. Get the cheapest. Only use for eggs. Replace if coating damaged.
Does not apply to any other cooking ware tho
This is horrible advice. Cheap nonstick flakes nasty teflon chemicals into your food. Shitty advice
Cheap nonstick flakes nasty teflon chemicals into your food.
All Teflon coatings will degrade if abused. Getting expensive nonstick just makes you want to use it longer than you should (sunk cost), and abuse it because it’s “more durable”.
So get a cheap T-fal, be very careful with it, always handwash, never use metal utensils, dispose if damaged at all, and only use for eggs.
Lastly, If you can’t use a nonstick pan carefully every time, just don’t use nonstick at all.
Get cast iron instead, and never worry about having to replace it
I have cast iron, I use it often, but I don’t like using it for eggs in the morning.
I’m with you. Started working to eliminate Teflon from the kitchen and went full cast iron, but eggs were still a challenge… Until someone turned me on to carbon steel.
It’s lighter (not as light as an aluminum pan with Teflon, but significantly lighter than cast iron) and takes the same abuse and seasoning as cast iron.
If it’s seasoned well enough it will work great with eggs
Its not a matter of stick, it’s a matter of convenience. It takes too long to get to temperature when I just need one egg.
No idea why you’re downvoted. Seasoning a cast iron pan sufficiently enough to fry an egg is challenging, whereas most chefs will use a non-stick pan solely for this purpose. It’s basically the one thing that non-stick is good at.
I’m gonna disagree. Cheap nonstick pans are horrible and just contribute to unnecessary waste plus you have no idea what’s in that coating. Carbon steel or cast iron, when properly seasoned, are just as non stick as a “non stick” coated pan and will literally last forever. They’re also WAY more useful than a nonstick since you can use them with almost any heat source and any temperature.
Can even toss em in the oven if you want. Love my cast irons. I specifically got my partner a baby cast iron for eggs since she loves eggs.
I’ve never had a nonstick pan I’ve personally owned go bad, because I use it for the right things. Low heat only, hands wash, and only use silicone utensils. Whenever I see other people with shitty non sticks it’s because they abuse them horribly. Searing things and using metal utensils and throwing them in the dishwasher or scrubbing the hell out of them. I love cast iron too, but I can never get them to not stick with low heat.
Do people really buy pans for just eggs though? I’ve always used my regular pans for cooking eggs and if I’m storing them in my home I’d want them to cook more than just eggs.
Some people do, yeah. I’ve always used stainless steel cause it’s what I had. Takes a little practice to get it to not stick, but after that it’s fine. I heat the empty pan on medium, medium high until it’s pretty hot. If you add a drop of water, it should bead up and roll. Then add the oil, wait until it shimmers, and add the eggs.
Enameled cast iron is nice too. It’s non-stick and not as heavy as a regular cast iron.
Most things. Clothes, cookware, phones, TV’s, etc.
I would say only spend money to buy things you’re passionate about. I love cooking and have spent some money on quality ingredients. Buy good spices and pans, erc. But I hardly spend money on clothing or vehicles or phones, etc.
Odd comment - you say don’t spend on cookware, yet you spent money on good pans? I also love cooking, and spent money on good pans and knives :-)
