Strong Flying Propeller / Pull Copter for Kids :) (No supports!) by MeisterEdel
www.thingiverse.com
Update 10.02.2023: I remixed the rotor with the toroidal design :) Feel free to test ist out! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5846249 Update 23.02.2023: NEW PULLING RODS! Some had proplems with a breaking pulling Rod. So I beefed up the old one (Classic+) and also designed 2 totaly new ones (Ergonomic & Hook). For the Ergonomic one you will need a M3 x 20+ Screw for assembling. I tested all with PLA in the local kindergarten and they withstand even rough abuse :P If you have difficulties to find the function to separate the files into single objects go to printable. There I uploaded all parts individually and put them into folders. (This is not possible at thingiverse and I don´t want to have all parts flying around :P) https://www.printables.com/model/227852-strong-flying-propeller-pull-copter-no-supports Hi Recently my son came home very sad because a friend had such a fancy flying propeller from the 1€ shop. Of course I had to sit down directly at the computer and after the first prototype was already well working I designed an improved version. This toy should be very stable and last a long time! Also, it's very easy to use and grab for the smaller ones among us! I used the technique already tested in my designs like the math train or the finger skateboard. You can print all parts without support and put the parts together very easy. I recommend to use a small drop of glue to secure the whole assembly in place. This drop should be located between the axis and the gear. It is not necessary but I lubricated all mechanical pieces with some paraffin wax. A drop of Oil will do the job too but may be messy. Put the pulling rod in the place marked by the arrows. Otherwise the propeller wants to fly downwards. Have fun! :) Note: The prop will fly long distances/ very high. So better use it in a place without trees and no obstacles. Hold the Toy away from the face! - otherwise the propeller will fly into it :D Assembly Video:https://studio.youtube.com/video/0pYzTrsRqqw/edit "Important" Print instructions/ tipps: Axis: Print the axis with at least 4-5 perimeters! Propeller: Print the propeller with not too brittle material! (I used tough PLA or even better: Nylon + Carbon Filament) - Low infill: The lighter the better ,-) I also tried TPU. It works but if you pull too hard it may deform too much and cause a malfunction. The lower you choose the layer hight the less friction the prop will cause. (I printed in 0,15mm) Gear & Bearings: Use filament that can withstand kinda low tolerances. PLA will do the job. If you have a seam cut it off after printing. To avoid a bad surface dont "fill the gaps". Pulling rod: I printed it with some tough PLA. But the less brittle the better I guess ,-) It is possible to separate the file into parts with your slicer ,) I also like to break the corners of all parts by scraping over these areas with a knife. That makes the action smooth and gives a good handfeel :) Attention: Don't use damaged Propeller!! A disbalance in the Rotation might destroy the Propeller and parts could fly Off. Especially with brital Material Like PLA. Small Update & Parts explanation: Added a 200 mm Pulling Rod for smaller Printbeds. (Original is 240mm) Added a 4 bladed Prop. Will be a little more robust but the 3 bladed one works better. Update 06.07.2022 Added a new (hopefully) more aerodynamik prop. This one flies even higher! (Added in standard download & single) Small Update 08.07.2022 Changed the axis tolerances from 0,15 mm per side to 0,2 mm so you will have less problems to assemble the parts if your printer isnt calibrated propperly ;_) If you like my work, I would be very happy about a small tip :) https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/MeisterEdel

Hello all. I am very new to this but it is all very cool to me. I ran into a problem and I am not sure how to troubleshoot it. I downloaded a simple pull string helicopter off thingiverse. After running through the slicer software, the estimated build time is 131 hours. Relative to it’s size this seems insane. If I “run the simulated build”, there are long holds on one of the interior walls. I am hesitant to just “try it” and see if the pauses are a software thing that does not translate to the hardware. I am not sure how to break it down from here. Any advice?

Link to the plans included

  • Sphks@lemmy.dbzer0.comEnglish
    0·
    6 months ago

    Every time I see this contraption, I can’t stop to think about Gardena making propellers. Due to the chosen colors.

    • Obi@sopuli.xyzEnglish
      0·
      6 months ago

      I’m literally looking at my garden hose roller thing and yep, can confirm.

  • IMALlama@lemmy.worldEnglish
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    6 months ago

    I suspect what’s getting you is minimum layer time. In a nutshell, extruding very hot plastic onto a layer that was very recently extruded can result in a runny mess. Minimum layer time is intended to address this.

    That said 131 hours seems a bit intense.

    What’s your layer height? How good is your cooling? If you crank your fan, you might be able to decrease minimum layer time.

    • Excrubulent@slrpnk.netEnglish
      0·
      6 months ago

      Just to add on to this, if OP is printing this standing then it really should be laid on iits side, so that the hole in the handle is facing up & down, not sideways. Looking at this print that’s definitely how it should be printed. Vertical not only runs into layer time issues, but it’s a tall, thin object with loads of layer seams in the middle. It will be extremely weak. Lying down the layers run along the length of it, making it stronger. If the hole is sideways, then one side of the handle makes a giant bridge, which could fail the print entirely or need lots of supports.

      I imagine the designer very intentionally made it to print on its side.

      Oh and put the embossed arrow facing up, assuming the other side is flat.

    • skotimusj@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      0·
      6 months ago

      Layer height is 0.1mm. it’s odd, because it happens on specific curved areas. There are no pauses on other areas that were recently printed.

      • IMALlama@lemmy.worldEnglish
        0·
        6 months ago

        You mean travel speed is slower in those curved areas? Perhaps it’s due to an overhang.

        Are you slicing the parts flat or are they standing up?

      • Creat@discuss.tchncs.deEnglish
        0·
        6 months ago

        A good rule of thumb is to just always use 0.2mm layers unless you have a very good reason not to.

        That being said, this doesn’t explain your truly nonsensical time prediction. It would just be double, since you have twice the layers to print. Like someone said, a few hours would be reasonable, certainly less than a day even with very fine detail.

  • lal309@lemmy.worldEnglish
    0·
    6 months ago

    Something else to check is your infill percentage. Make sure you don’t have it at 100% (unless you absolutely need to build something completely solid). Another thing to check is your print speed. Too low and it will take a decade to print something simple. Too fast and it cause your print to fail. At this point we will all be throwing spaghetti against the wall. Can you share a screenshot of your settings?

  • paddington@lemmy.worldEnglish
    0·
    6 months ago

    You definitely don’t need a layer height that low for something like this. Even still, you’ve got something set up weird because at a normal 0.2mm layer height it’s showing just under 4 hours to print everything but the pull rods (only because I’m too lazy to split the STL apart right now.) Try resetting your build settings or start a ‘new’ project.

  • Creat@discuss.tchncs.deEnglish
    0·
    6 months ago

    Can you give us your basic info:

    • Which printer
    • Which slicer
    • What kind of profile
    • Which preset (if any)
    • What filament is selecte
    • did you change any settings

    and just posta screenshot of the sliced model that the slicer should show you, makes it much easier to recognize trivial errors like wrong orientation.

    • skotimusj@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      0·
      6 months ago

      Here is what I remember.

      Creality ender 5 s1 Creality slicer High detail profile (Infill % 15, speed 100, nozzle temp 205, bed temp 60, z axis 0.1) PLA These were the default with no changes.

      I am not sure what other parameters can be changed.

      I will post a screenshot tonight. I did notice that 99% of the time is on the outer wall, this is where I noticed the pauses when I simulate the print.

      • Creat@discuss.tchncs.deEnglish
        0·
        6 months ago

        I’m sure the official slicer will have a good profile, maybe the speed for outer walls accidentally got changed to 1 mm/s? I don’t usually use Cura (that is what their slicer is based on), but I think to change speeds at all you need to hit “show advanced” or something? So if you didn’t change anything, that is even less likely.

        If it’s real pauses (print head stops completely), I have even less ideas what that could be.

        When I get back home I can try to see what I get with your settings, probably just resetting everything should also work for you though.