Most Voron folks will usually suggest building as close to stock as you can initially and going from there. LDO’s kits modify the stock BOM quite a bit, which can make for a more challenging build. Buying from someone like West 3D. Formbot kits use to stick to the stock BOM fairly well too.

As for support, there’s an active discord server and forum you can use to get help. They also have a print it forward program where you’re matched with a Voron owner who will print your functional parts for the cost of material.

3 hours in and no one’s brought up VoronDesign? You can’t buy their priners or parts directly, you either have to self source or buy some variant or “BOM in a box” from a third party. I’ve had mine for two (three?) years and although the build was long it was very well documented, via a 240+ page lego-like build manual. It’s a great printer and community.

Sorry for the delayed reply. No, too warm won’t cause warping. However, the hold side of your hot end will at best be ambient temperature. If it gets too warm you can clog your nozzle.

My view is “if the chamber doesn’t need to be hotter why make it hotter?”.

If you were printing ASA/ABS you want your chamber to go basically as hot as you can get it though - especially if you’re printing something big.

This is the deepest I’ve ever seen Jerboa render comments.

Lifting on the corners, especially if this was a bed sized print, was probably due to warping. It stinks that it took out your bed, but warping probably wasn’t the cause there.

My main printer these days is enclosed. When I print PETG on it I’ll pop the lid open because PETG doesn’t like to be too warm.

That looks like somewhat similar to an ultrabase bed. I have had one of those on my i3 clone for years and years. I’ve also printed a reasonable amount of PETG on it. Was the print and/or bed warm when you tried to pull it off? Prints detach much better when cool.

The ender 5 isn’t a bed slinger so it should be relatively compact for its print volume. You can certainly get a smaller printer. You can do this by getting a more compact printer and/or sacrificing build volume. If you want compact you’re probably going to want a coreXY

For example:

• your ender 5 pro is 552mm x 485mm x 510mm and has a build volume of 220mm x 220mm x 300
• a Prusa i3 mk3 is 500mm x 550mm x 400mm and has a build volume of 210mm³ (the bedslinger is indeed bigger)
• a 300mm³ Voron 2.4 is 460mm x 460mm x 480mm and has, well, a 300mm³ build volume. They also have a 250mm version that will probably save another 50mm in every dimension
• a Prusa mini is 380mm × 330mm × 380mm and has a build volume of 180mm ³
• a Voron 0.2 is 230mm x 230mm x 250mm and has a build volume of 120mm³
• I gave up on finding dimensions on the salad fork, but it’s probably going to be even smaller than the v0 due to using 15x15 extrusions instead of 20x20

Hobby woodworker here. Shellac is great for an initial seal, but isn’t waterproof. I suggest using a two part epoxy instead. You don’t need a very thick coat, so you could even use a crack filler and/or self leveling variety.

Amusingly, your link does one of the few things that bother me about Jerboa: open in my default browser instead of the app.

Not on a steam deck, but I did buy another PC based handheld.

As a Dad with a somewhat demanding job, I don’t get a lot of time on my gaming PC anymore. Having something that’s not squirreled away in a corner that turns on/off quickly has made it a lot easier game somewhat more casually.

I’m generally happy with the performance of my handled, but there is some tension between most of the steam games I’m trying to play on it and the realities of a hand held.

For example, many games on steam are designed for larger screens. Sure, they’ll render fine on a small screen, but things that were very obvious on a large screen can become harder to spot because the game designers could assume more real estate.

I also find myself gravitating toward games that were either built for a console or PC games that don’t require a lot of keyboard actions. For example, I’m presently playing through the original Borderlands after having last played it on PC quite a while ago. I don’t think I would attempt StarCraft II on my handheld though.

I’ve had two printers: a monoprice branded wanhao i3 plus and a Voron 2.4. The wanhao was pretty heavily modified. I guess any Voron winds up being somewhat modified, but the mods I’ve installed on it have all been quality of life related.

3D printing tends to involve some level of tinkering, but it was nice to shift from the wanhao to the Voron. The Voron is a start it and forget it printer. Even if I wasn’t replacing parts or modifying the wanhao it took a lot more fiddling for things like bed leveling.

Thanks for the links!

Colorfabb lists products for sale and claims compostability in any environment. I am tempted to buy a spool and give it a go, including composting in my compost pile.

PHA 3DESIGN’s website says their products are not home compostable :(

100% bio-based, blended from PHA and other bio-based materials, industrially compostable.

EcoGenesis’s website spends a lot of time saying “PLA isn’t compostable outside of very specific conditions”, but doesn’t appear to say that their product is more widely compostable. I also didn’t see an obvious place to buy their filament or even really a listing of filaments.

Where do you source your PHA? I looked around a year or so ago, but the options were fairly sparse.

Warping! Others have hit on a lot of this, so I’ll try to be brief.

• warping is due to the plastic shrinking as it cools. This builds tension in the lower layers of the print
• bigger prints are naturally more warp prone
• part shape and aspect ratio also plays a role. Parts with big aspect ratios (eg much wider or longer than the other axis) are more warp prone. Parts with sharp transitions are also more likely to warp
• different filaments are more warp prone than others. PLA is least prone, followed by PETG. ASA/ABD are the most warp prone I’ve printed so far
• fiddling with temps and speeds can help
• make sure you have good bed adhesion (clean bed, good first layer, etc)
• having good bed adhesion will only take you so far. I’ve had prints pull my magnetic bed plate up
• you can try printing a draft shield around your part (think a skirt as tall as your part)
• IMO eclosures are the way to go for warp prone parts. You’ll need to be somewhat careful about chamber temps getting too high (this can cause nozzle clogs for PLA/PETG) or not getting high enough (ASA/ABS will still warp in a cool chamber). My enclosure has a removable lid that I pop for PLA/PETG and has insulation/bedfans/a filter for ASA/ABS

Dish soap is better than alcohol, especially if you’re cleaning the bed in a sink with lots of water to rinse all the accumulated oils off.

There’s also all the mess of slicer and printer settings. It would be interesting to give someone a collection of parts with different nozzle sizes, extrusion widths, pressure advance settings, temp settings, print speeds/accelerations, etc

Interesting project! I will have to give it a look.

sourcing the materials can be a bit of a challenge

Any more details here? I’m guessing the necessary material for electrolytic and what not? Do you know about the boring adjacent stuff like measuring (eg how accurate do the measurements need to be, how precise, etc), disposal, etc?

Check the post title ;)

Great read, with some amusing asides.

Shots fired!

I personally am pretty happy with my 2.4, although I would suggest skipping the cable chains and going to an umbilical. I went the nitehawk route. If you’re going to be printing ASA or ABS add an under bed carbon filter and bedfans. I would also suggest skipping to ACM panels if you plan on big ASA/ABS prints.

If you dig through my comments you can see me talking about it. Mechanical bed leveling, that actually squares the gantary to the bed, and Z calibration make for very consistent first layers.