Context for the inexperienced: these are cone seat GM lugnuts, the cone portion is supposed to face IN towards the wheel as they are self centering, not OUT… guy didn’t know wtf he was doin
Context for the inexperienced: these are cone seat GM lugnuts, the cone portion is supposed to face IN towards the wheel as they are self centering, not OUT… guy didn’t know wtf he was doin
Heres the “correct” way to do it: get a buddy to pump the brakes (engine not running) until the pedal is hard. Keep pressure on, open the bleeding valve, see and hear the farting, once it stops, close the valve, release pressure from the pedal, pump pedal until hard, keep pressure, open the bleeding valve… etcetc, repeat until no more farts come out. Also, repeat it in every corner, air might get into the other lines as well, especially if you have the lines open for long periods of time. At the end, make sure the brake fluid reservoir is full.
If you are like me and have no friends, get a vacuum pump, attach it to the bleeding valve, start sucking, open valve, close valve once no air is coming out. Check fluid levels.
No friends here either, but I somehow managed to contract a GF once upon a time, and she helped.
What are the chances my car (an ancient Volvo that still runs fine, by the way) doesn’t have bleed valves? I can’t recall seeing anything very obvious.
None.
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/BE3BLkIlAeLu2qlE.large
That picture shows a Volvo 240, but the tube is connected to the valve.
https://turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/1990-volvo-240-brake-bleed-process-help.298643/
I’ve only worked on one Volvo, but I owned and fixed several SAABs.
That caliper looks very similar to the ones I have on my 940, so I guess I just didn’t notice it.
The ancient ones always run better than the new ones anyway. I recommemd you hold on to that brick as long as you can. And I say this as a Finn, so its high praise for a swedish product.
“see and hear the farting” Classic, page 872 of the Mechanic’s Handbook!