Thank you! This helped a lot.
Now, in the pinout for my old SKR v1.4 FAN0 is "12/24v" and "2.3", while FAN1 is "GND" and "12/24v".
What are the difference between FAN0 and FAN1 port on the motherboard?
(I’ve had a working 3D printer for 6 days, and have no experience with anything 3D printing related, so therefore these noob questions. )
Thanks. I’ve already used this one.
In the config file, some pins are named like “PB0”, but other have a “!” in front, like “!PB1”, and other a “^”, like “^PC2”. What are the “!” and “^” for?
What’s the difference between a “PB0” and a “PC11”.
Suspected that the SKR v1.4 original motherboard died (Hotend not heating), so advanced to the SKR MINI v3 + a Raspberry PI for Klipper.
I’m looking for “printer.cfg” that matches this setup…
SKR MINI V3 and a Rasperry Pi 4 (for Klipper) is ordered and in the mail…
Shit, what have i done. Haha
Yeah, it’s a pretty standard setup. The previous owner put a BLTouch on the printer but never got it to work. I’ve had the printer for about 2 weeks and was about to figure this ABL out, but it misses the ABL option in the menu.
I’m pretty new in the 3D print business and know nothing about flashing, compiling, and all the options you can do. You recommend the SKR MINI 3.0, and i didn’t know i could change the mobo to other than the original SKR V1.4. What are the benefits of changing to the SKR MINI? And, no, I’m not in the US. But I’ll find it here in Norway…
And Klipper? Not heard of that either, but a fast youtube peek tells me that this too might be interesting…
Yes, that little board connects many of the cables from the main board to one USB-C, the the black and the white connectors. The USB-C is the only one going to the hotend.
Anways, thank you, kind internet stranger, for trying to help me out with this. Looks like I’m gonna have to replace the mainboard.
The thermistor temperature reacts to me touching the thermistor-end. This shows in the display- So i believe this is not the problem here…
The outside view
This is the board that has a USB-C on the outside for the hotend
#3 goes up to a board back on the printer. This board has multiple outlets, and one USB-C that goes up to the hotend.
I will measure the voltage when I get back home later today. It probably will show no volts, so which board is defect? The little one in the hotend or the board on the other side of the USB-C cable? How to verify the mosfet?
That sucks. I have no clue about 3D printers and did no research before buying this one used. Worked OK for about 6 days… Well 80 bucks…
I’m a totally noob in the 3D printing scene. My brother has a Biqu B1 and I’ve printed some small things on his printer. Found a used Biqu B1 for sale for about $80. Yeah, not good research from my side… But, I’ve printed a well printed fucktopus before it died…
Yeah, i have ohm’ed the heater. It actually was the same resistance as the one i thought was dead… I don’t remember the value (I’m at work right now)
Thanks for answering. Found a post on Reddit about getting the BLTouch working on stock firmware, it all went well until the printer stated that “unknown command m851”… I’ve looked at the firmwares on Bigtreetech’s GitHub, but I found it just confusing. The newest I found there is older than mine. After all youtube videos I’ve watched and all reading i have done, none have mentioned that the offset parameter is just set in machine parameters and not ABL. Thanks for this.
Had a 1998 Citroen Electrique once. Not much fancy electronics there…
Thanks for answering. Will try this later tonight.
Edit: No file with that name there. Only a “lighttpd.conf”
Thanks for replying. So, if I go for option 2, I should just change all instances with “admin” to “admin2”?
By the Apple TV 4K version…
Here comes the fun part.
The Biqu B1 has all it’s wires to the hotend via a USB-C cable. All wires from the motherboard goes to a card in the back of the printer, and fom there is a USB-C to a card in the hotend. This card splits up to TH0, CNCFAN, CNCAN1, FAN2 and HE0. Even power to the nozzle heater goes in the USB-C.
On the old SKR v1.4, the wire labeled DCIN were connected to FAN1 (GND - 12/24v), and FAN0 were connected to FAN0 (2.3 - 12/24v).
On the new SKR MINI V3 the DCIN wire is connected to FAN1 (12/24v - PC7), and FAN0 wire to FAN0 (12/24v - PC6).
The wire DCIN is not from PSU, but gives power to the card in the hotend.
In the printer.cfg all of fan-stuff are commented out, and the only thing is:
[fan_generic hotend_fan] #use for testing of hotend fan pin: PC7 pin: PC7 [fan] #part fan pin: PC6 Pin: PC6This gives me sliders in Klipper for PC6 and PC7, and I can set FAN1 to 100%.
This should in (my) theory give power to the card in the hotend. But when i slide FAN0 in Klipper nothing happens with the fans.
When i disconnect the wires to the nozzle heater from the motherboard i now have about 24 volts on those wires, and this happens without heating the heater.
The reason for me starting this project was that one day i just got error message when heating the nozzle. First i bought a new heater, thermistor and the block they are mounted in. This did not help. So, now the motherboard is replaced and I’ve added a Raspberry PI with Klipper to the setup, and still no joy.