I don’t know how the various options here work, BUT you might also appreciate them too https://libredirect.github.io/index.html (this is where I found the other link)

Seems a good time to drop this here https://breezewiki.com/

As an extra to all that’s being said so far, a food safe material doesn’t mean it has a food safe pigment in it. To be honest, if all you’re going to put into the prints are packaged items (say the tea bags) then meh, not much of a big deal IMO.

This reminds me that it’s a new month, and time for a backup. Thanks!

You might have some polypropylene there. Really strong material! Won’t stick to shit, temperature resistant, chemical resistant, can bend without breaking… never tried it, personally but it’s interesting stuff.

Sounds like TPU? Maybe soft one too.

Oh! The “brassic” guy! I don’t have much help to offer, but I didn’t know that term, had to look it up and found the tv show :D so thank you.

A tiny bit of potential help: you mention wanting to use desiccant in the boat. I’m obviously not an expert, but it sounds like a bad idea, as the stuff absorbs water… but maybe you mean in small amounts, so that wouldn’t make a difference.

Had access to cli, restarted HA and quickly disabled the Alexa integration: so far everything is working as intended :)

Similarly unfortunate situation for me, using the backup didn’t really help. But I DO have the Alexa integration, I guess next time I get HA between reboots I’ll disable that.

I think on my system it’s causing reboots. Not fun.

I’m thinking it looks like the print gets to a spot where it can get faster, and your hot end can’t keep up with the temperature required by that filament, causing under extrusion. If my guess is correct, it would show on a small test print (same settings) where you get looooong straight lines to allow for speed. And would disappear by slowing down. Since it looks like a relatively expensive filament I suggest you wait for more feedback before trying my test, just in case I got it wrong and my test would waste some filament for nothing.

Fortunately my thermometers don’t do that, because they are a good choice, Zigbee wise. Always on the lookout for replacements, if the need arises…

The bloody morons… why they say 16 tops if it can do better? It’s not like they don’t have access to 16gb sticks to test 2 of them! Like, I get when it’s “this supports up to” and that’s the largest available at launch, but this is just stupid. Thanks for correcting me!

super easy to upgrade to 32/48gb

Not on an N95/97/100 as they support max 16… https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/231803/intel-processor-n100-6m-cache-up-to-3-40-ghz.html so they can be repaired, but not upgraded.

LIDAR sucks, accuracy wise. If you want accuracy, and hate yourself, then you need an iPhone XR/XS because that was the generation with the most accurate FaceID (for whatever reason). Or go photogrammetry, the LIDAR can help but isn’t the main thing there… this is both free and great. With a Mac you can get the data processed faster, or it can be done (paid) via cloud, or with less accuracy and a bit of patience, on device. It’s not going to be a professional solution, but depending on the task it works and chances are the hardware is already there :)

You might want to double check this, but as far as I remember both the Sovol SV06 and SV08 are open source. The SV06 sounds in line with your desired budget, IF I remember correctly the open source thing. And as others have said, Cura, Prusa slicer and Orca are open source and cross platform.

A bit hard to tell, as every printer is different, but try a small test file at let’s say 100 mm/s? I use Cura (really, really dislike the Slic3r/Prusa Slicer/Orca interface) and here it’s called “Print Speed”. Changing that will lower the others in the same way, can’t imagine it works differently in Prusa Slicer.

This could be two things, aside from what you considered. Did you increase the speed? Because if I remember correctly the SV06 has a bit of a wimpy cooling system, and as opposed to the SV07, no extra fan on the back. Another thing to consider is that sometimes you just have a filament that is stringy, did you try a different one, or so far it’s your only option?

I have a Sovol SV07 Plus, that is the newer version of the SV06 Plus… or in other words, the mechanically identical, but larger, SV06. It’s easy to assemble, it’s bigger than the A1 Mini. Now, you don’t know how big your printer needs to be, until you find out that it’s too small! I found that the 22cm square offered by my old Ender 3 was enough for most things, but it wasn’t enough for everything. I also had a 12cm square with a Monoprice Select Mini Plus V2(the name was the biggest thing lol) and that was quick to become restrictive. Would I suggest the A1 Mini, that has halfway between the two? I don’t know. But at the same time it comes pre assembled (it might not be a concern for you) and easy to use. In short I would recommend the SV07 as that’s the small and less expensive version of what I have, but the SV06 should be mechanically identical so that gives me hope it’ll perform equally well. The downsides are a less than stellar control unit (the hardware inside the touchscreen), a weird as fuck cooling fan that is super loud, and instructions that trick you into believing that the packets of screws are numbered in a meaningful way. Don’t. That said it prints everything with ease, it’s really fast and that fan might be loud, but at the same time works wonders. I love it. Oh! Also. Once I ever so slightly fucked up the Z offset, making it scrape quite thoroughly the build surface: nothing got damaged, build surface included!

The wireless Reolinks are not great. Like, nothing against the camera itself, however, the WiFi antenna must be smaller than the one in my watch. The range is truly abysmal.

Tapo ones are perfectly fine, good quality all around, but it’s important to specify that I have experience with external, solar powered Reolinks and indoor Tapo, so it’s a bit of a different category.