The way the test is implemented through orca slicer is actually a bit confusing. The forks of bambulab and orca slicer are likely intermingled. I used the default settings given in the drop menu then it imported a model. I then started the test as is without modifying anything.

I honestly have no idea which the correct values were for the p1p. Now that you mentioned it, I suppose I should have checked with bambulabs online manual. I hadn’t thought about that.

I’m currently trying to solve some seam artifacts. I assumed retraction has something to do with it.

The print is so small and I literally cannot see the results. I can’t even photograph it clear enough with my camera phone.

I must have done something wrong because the whole tower looks pretty much the same except for a clear overextrusion around the middle on one side. The rest have really thin barely visible strings that don’t go very far.

I’m not really concerned about my former issue. I hadn’t yet touched the calibration settings of my printer. They made a significant difference. I got a completely different issue now which I’m certain is the big one that nobody has a set answer for.

Yeah just the residue, no visible pieces of tape. Sorry for the late response.

Glad to know. I wasn’t aware of dead zones unil now. I’ll have to research that.

I admit I tried using every gram. Still I found some of the tape residue on the inside of the spool. Thanks for the advice.

I guess it would be small. What about a small triangle of it?

I’m asking because I got a weird droplet in my feed that showed up in a duplicate print.

There’s so many advantages to making your own. No wait time, and custom pieces. Only the connections are needed.

I had assumed they were referring to pouring and not a resin printer. Using a mold is definitely a full proof approach.

You might be right about that. Still being able to print at that quality or near it, would look good.

Yeah I hadn’t thought about getting the smaller bits off the plate.