You might recall last month that I posted about my 3D-printed spectacles.

Enough people asked me for the files and for details on how to order lenses and mount them into the frames that I figured I’d release everything with instructions - and also redesign the hinges a bit so the temples fold more compact, something I meant to do for some time.

  • ExtremeDullard@lemmy.sdf.orgOP
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    3 days ago

    Sounds like OptiBoard

    The name rings a bell. Admittedly, I started looking into that stuff well before social media was even a thing 🙂

    I didn’t realize you worked with a lens maker directly and not through an optician

    Sorry I thought you meant to choose frames and for fitting. For that, I do my own, obviously.

    But yeah, to order the lenses, I do have to go through opticians. And yes, they did measure my pupillary distance (only once, I’m not a shape-shifter), they do issue the order for the lenses in the correct format and they double-check the lenses when they arrive. Some of them tried to make me pay an extortion fee of $50 or something for bringing my own frames, but considering they wouldn’t be doing any added-value work beyond ordering the lenses for me, I thought that was a bit rich so I went elsewhere.

    I did order lenses direct from Hoya once, because I had a friend who worked there. But apparently they found out and my friend told me never again, or he’d be in trouble. So now I go through my local optician when my prescription changes - which isn’t that often: the lady who owns the store knows me well, she’s kind of amused to see my various eyewear contraptions and she knows she’s never going to extract a fortune out of me, but also she doesn’t have to spend any time on me either. So she passes her supplier’s costs onto me almost without any surcharge.

    I’m surprised to read that superglue is sometimes used

    It’s only for round lenses, either in light-fitting frames, for safety in case the screw backs out in metal frames, or in plastic frames because plastic is a bit more slippery. Round lenses typically shift when you clean them with a little too much gusto and it can happen surprisingly easily even in well-fitting frames.

    Glue is not ideal but sometimes it’s needed. And obviously it’s never used with non-round lenses that are always naturally oriented properly.

    Without the simulated weight, they’re fine. But with weight, they slip off if I look down.

    Firstly, are you sure those test lenses you’re using are polycarbonate? If they’re glass, they’re a lot heavier. And of course they might be thicker than necessary for your prescription because they’re cheap: thin lenses are lighter but more spendy.

    But essentially you’ve discovered why I always wear glasses with cable temples 🙂 Yes, they’re a bit more annoying to fit in a case, but they hold your frames put on your nose and you never have to worry about your glasses slipping ever again.

    Although the 3D-printed glasses I designed fold the temples at an angle to position the wires more smartly, so they fit in regular cases. And I’ve just finished designing a very nice 3D-printed custom case for them too, which I will publish on my Github soon. But here’s a sneak preview:

    Also, I’ve been wearing cable temples for so long that the nose bridge of all my glasses, which all land more or less at the same place on my nose all the time, ended up leaving a permanent indent in my skin. So the nose bridge always fall in it now. I could almost do away with the temples and the frames wouldn’t even move at this point.

    I think there isn’t an inexpensive way to do that.

    If you don’t intend to change the shape of your frames, the easiest is to design around old lenses you have lying around. If you screw them up, you weren’t doing anything with them anyway so it doesn’t matter. And presumably they used to be as nice lenses as you could afford when you wore them, so they should be close to the new ones you’ll order after you’ve finished your design.

    • lemmynimal@lemmy.world
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      2 days ago

      But yeah, to order the lenses, I do have to go through opticians.

      That’s unfortunate. I’m trying to troubleshoot some problem that may be due to how the lens are made (or not). So having some understanding and control of that part of the process could have helped.

      Firstly, are you sure those test lenses you’re using are polycarbonate?

      Good question. I weighed my current frame + lens and printed frame + trial lens to pick trial lenses that match the weight. Like you, I’m execting to be lighter in the end but wanted to be on the safe side when tweaking the frames.

      The trial lens are indeed glass but I’m using “plano” (0D) lenses because those match the weight. The actual lens is/will be plastic, but not polycarbonate. Its some material that’s only referred to by its index of refraction.

      I’ll definitely add cable temples to the list of things to try and see what works well.

      But here’s a sneak preview:

      Nice! I haven’t even thought about the case yet. I was probably going to reuse an existing case but now this is giving me ideas :) Although at this point, I’m still mainly focused on solving the (medical) problem or at least gain some insight.

      If you don’t intend to change the shape of your frames, the easiest is to design around old lenses you have lying around.

      Indeed. Unfortunately, the main thing I want to do with 3d printing is to make frames with smaller lenses. They don’t make these other than for children and child-sized faces. So I don’t have any old glasses with lenses of that size.