Get the ones with the CE mark as, since 2017, the EU rules for LED Light Bulbs are very strict (for example, models must be tested for min 10k hours of life with at last 95% of the bulbs passing, and 10,000 on-off cycles) and that CE mark means they were tested in accordance with them (unless the mark is fake, obviously).

Also as others pointed out, you want to make sure the light fixtures you have them in do not trap heat: LED lights emit way less heat that incandescant but if it can’t go anywhere temperatures can get pretty high, plus both the actual LEDs and the components of the power converter at the bottom of the lamp (as the Light Emitting Diodes themselves take DC, ideally with a regulated current, not 110/220V AC) are way more sensitive to temperature than the stuff incandescent lamps are made.

Beyond this, also note that when it comes to overall quality (rather than merelly efficiency), that converter circuit makes most of the difference and manufacturers competing mostly on price will often use designs for those with significantly lower quality to save a few cents per unit. You might want to consider getting the Dimmable LED Light Bulbs even if you aren’t going to use them with a dimmer simply because in order for it to be Dimmable that conversion circuit needs to have a different, better, design that the cheapest ways of designing it.

At one point in time, maybe 7 or 8 years ago, I looked into setting up a business to import those things from China, and most samples I got from back then still work (except the ones from the really crap manufacturer, of the rest maybe 1 in 5 failed since then) - this is also why I know all those details about EU LED Light Bulb requirements and certification.

I’ve also been using LED Light Bulbs since even before that and have had very few failures in almost 10 years of using those things, even though I never buy the branded expensive stuff.

Last I checked the factory price of a decent 100 lumens LED Filament Light Bulb at the factory in China was around $1 so LED Light bulbs above $/£/€5 are way overpriced.

I’ve gotten LED bulbs at Goodwill for $1 for a 4-pack. I have those in my front and back porch lights which I keep on 24/7. I haven’t had to replace them for years.

You may have an electrical issue that’s causing them to burn out. Have you had an electrician test the wires?

Buy better quality bulbs with drivers that don’t burn out.

Where can you buy those? No clue now, the one guy I knew making good ones got arrested.

I can’t remember the last time I had to replace an LED. You may need to check wiring and voltages.

Make sure the LED bulbs you’re using are rated for use in enclosed fixtures. Heat is the #1 killer for them. My basement is equipped with a bunch of enclosed fixtures that had 3 bulbs each in them, and they kept killing LED bulbs because the trapped heat had nowhere to go. They were designed for incandescent bulbs that didn’t care about being hot.

Are they on a dimmer? Some older dimmers don’t place nice with LED.

I’ve never had to replace an LED bulb, ever. They last forever if there isn’t a problem with your installation, like poor electrical wiring or poor ventilation

I’m assuming you have a lot of flush-mount ceiling fixtures (aka boob lights)? My experience with them is that they’re very effective LED bulb killers.

The only two that have lasted are in my range hood for light above my stove. Those experience extreme heat and yet they are fine.

They only experience heat when you’re cooking, and are able to vent that heat to a large volume of air (assuming they’re not enclosed, or only enclosed by a thin sheet of plastic). The rest of the time they’re probably powered off and at ambient temperatures. Compare that to enclosed flush-mount fixtures, in which bulbs stay on for large portions of the day, trapping lots of heat in a small space for long periods of time. That’s a perfect recipe for killing LED bulbs.

If your house was built prior to LED bulbs being so widespread, it might be worthwhile to consider new fixtures that were actually designed with LED bulbs in mind.

Also, don’t buy no-name bulbs off Amazon. Chinese factories crank out shitty bulbs that are designed and built as cheaply as possible, and they will fail quickly.

Might be worth looking into phosphor-converted LEDs. A little slower to light up, but supposedly last longer and are more heat-tolerant.

Check your power. I’ve had about 50 led bulbs for about 7 or more years. Only the ones in the bathroom failed because they were cheap and not rated for use in a wet and humid environment. Their replacements are coming up on 4 years old now and no signs of trouble. None of the bulbs were particularly expensive when I bought them.

I’m going to speculate you have some issues with power delivery. Are you in an older home or get hit with brown/black outs? Could be under or over voltage by enough to burn through them. I have used dollar store bulbs all the way to hue branded bulbs. I might have had one die early from dozens in 2 different properties.

LED bulbs do last, that’s why they’re manufactured to overdrive the elements so they burn out sooner.

Try getting dimmable ones and run them a little lower.

Most cheap non-dimmable LEDs have drivers that use resistors to determine the current to drive through the LEDs. As a rule, these are always set too high to overdrive the LEDs (sometimes as much as twice their rated current) for marginal brightness gains and to burn out the bulb prematurely. I’m obviously unable to actually see directly into the operation of the great minds that design LED lightbulbs but logic leaves me with only those two plausible conclusions, I’ll let you decide which motivation you think is a bigger factor for most manufacturers.

Conveniently, most manufacturers carefully fine-tune this value to prematurely destroy the LEDs at just the right time, which requires careful balancing of resistors, and even MORE conveniently (for us) the cheapest way for them to do this is typically to use two resistors. And MOST conveniently (for us), if you were to carelessly break one of the pair of resistors they use, and leave the other one intact, the current would immediately drop to a very reasonable and appropriate level, generating much less heat, drawing much less power, making LED death extremely unlikely, and only modestly reducing brightness in many cases, because LEDs have non-linear brightness and the heavily overdriven ones are typically FAR beyond the point of diminishing returns. In some cases the reduction in power results in basically no visible difference in light output. In some cases it can be argued they’re literally stealing extra power from your electricity bill and using it as an electric heater for no purpose other than to burn out your own light bulbs prematurely so you have to replace them.

The good news is, like I said, removing one of the responsible resistors instantly solves the design flaw and is usually quite easy even without any special tools or electronics knowledge. BigCliveDotCom calls this “Doobying” the bulbs after the Dubai bulbs that were mentioned in other comments. If you watch some of his videos about LED bulbs you should be able to see the pattern of which resistors to remove, if they are on the board they will basically always be right next to each other and relatively small values (typically in the 20 ohms to 200 ohms range). The only modification I make to his procedure is that I prefer to remove the HIGHER value of the two resistors instead of the lower one, which results in perhaps somewhat less lifetime preservation (still much more than the original setting) and less power savings, but more brightness, and is usually adequately good for my purposes. I also use sturdy tweezers to remove the resistor instead of a screwdriver which seems to me that it would have a higher risk of collateral damage.

Is it a lot of work for a single light bulb? Kind of, yes. But once you get it done a bunch of times, you’ll probably rarely have to do it again, as these bulbs last almost forever. In fact, I have yet to have one actually fail, I am mostly just replacing the occasional old unmodified LED bulb from time to time.

This will not work with dimmable bulbs or certain fancy high end bulbs. Also some are much, much easier to modify than others. Clive calls the ones that are relatively easy “hackable” and it’s really a crapshoot to find them. Some have covers/bulbs/diffusers that are nearly impossible to remove without catastrophic damage to the bulb and/or your hands. Others simply use a different circuit design that doesn’t have resistors. Some only have a single resistor, meaning to change the value you need to solder a new one in its place. In my experience, the bargain-basement, junkiest, least reliable bulbs tend to be the easiest to hack this way and often skimp on things like “gluing the lens on” so it’s easy to get off. But you’ll have to experiment to find a brand and style that works well for this.

Dimmer switches + dimmable bulbs and never, ever buy whole units with non-replaceable LEDs, those things are a scam and little more than e-waste.

That’s a wiring issue. Bulbs burning out shockingly fast means something else is wrong. Had the same issue in a ceiling light until we replaced the wiring.