Context for the inexperienced: these are cone seat GM lugnuts, the cone portion is supposed to face IN towards the wheel as they are self centering, not OUT… guy didn’t know wtf he was doin

    • empireOfLove2@lemmy.dbzer0.comOP
      0·
      5 months ago

      Making me glad I bought it off him before he killed someone.

      This is also an older Cadillac that needs a very specific wheel bearing adjustment (yes, a bearing adjustment!) sequence every 30k miles and he didn’t do it, so the front right tire had like 3/8" of play top to bottom. Sigh.

        • algorithmae@lemmy.sdf.org
          0·
          5 months ago

          There’s a nut that you tighten that changes how tight the bearing is being squeezed. You adjust it so that the bearing turns but doesn’t have any play

          • Nougat@fedia.io
            0·
            5 months ago

            More specifically, on modern cars, you’ll normally have a sealed bearing/hub assembly, which does not need adjusting.

            The ones that need adjusting are where you have an open spindle, the hub and [rotor|drum] are one piece, and the bearings are open and need to be greased. You’ll have an inner bearing, then the hub/brake, then an outer bearing, topped off with a big nut. You snug that nut down until the spinning hub just starts to get tight, then back it off a 1/4 turn and fix it in place with a cotter pin.

            • empireOfLove2@lemmy.dbzer0.comOP
              0·
              5 months ago

              More specifically modern tapered bearings are designed to run under continuous preload (the shaft inside with a nut provides constant clamping force so that the bearing is constantly in contact with its entire bearing race). These older bearings run with no preload, I think largely because machining tolerances were poorer and the races were not always perfect, so the weight of the car applies load to force bearing contact only where needed. The downside is that these bearings need repacking with grease and adjusting very frequently.