• themeatbridge@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    0
    ·
    5 months ago

    Most LEDs run on DC, and the built-in transformer is the most likely component to fail. If the LED is failing and getting dimmer, it’s most likely due to poor heat dissipation.

    If we had little 12v adapters and separate LED modules, you could reduce waste by only replacing the part that fails, and manufacturers would have greater incentive to improve build quality. Instead, we get cheaply manufactured bulb-shaped disposable units that need to be thrown away when one part fails.

    • Defectus@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      0
      ·
      5 months ago

      Yeah. Its about 50/50 for the ones who failed me. Gets too hot and burn out or the power supply fails. More prevalent in the compact formats like spots and g8 or g4.

      • themeatbridge@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        0
        ·
        5 months ago

        I have some dc lighting in my basement. It’s great, but there aren’t as many options out there and electricians don’t want to touch it.

        • Aux@lemmy.world
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          0
          ·
          5 months ago

          Electricians don’t want to touch DC circuits because it is illegal to mix low voltage DC and high voltage AC circuits. At least it’s illegal in Europe. You need to rebuild your walls to ensure separate and independent wiring channels. And that’s a very expensive nightmare.

          It’s a lot cheaper to buy Philips bulbs instead.

          • themeatbridge@lemmy.world
            link
            fedilink
            English
            arrow-up
            0
            ·
            edit-2
            5 months ago

            Yeah, I definitely get it. It would be illegal to mix low and line voltage in the USA, too.

            I ended up running the cabling myself, all class two circuits powering 12 24vdc spots. The nice bit is that they are all addressable RGBW spots, so I can control them all individually or as groups. And it’s all automated. The downside is that I’ll probably have to remove them if we ever sell this house, because nobody but me understands how it works.

            • Aux@lemmy.world
              link
              fedilink
              English
              arrow-up
              0
              ·
              5 months ago

              The thing is that it is a lot easier and a lot safer to buy some ESP32 boards, flash them with WLED, plug into 5V/12V/24V box, hide all of that in a 3D printed enclosure and call it a day than to rebuild the bloody walls (: And you won’t be breaking any regulations and every sparky will be fine with that.

              Running all your house with two wiring systems is dumb AF that’s why no one will ever do that for you. That’s my point.

        • fruitycoder@sh.itjust.works
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          0
          ·
          5 months ago

          I was looking at rv lighting as some options over wise just doing custom jobs (LEDs in whatever fixtures I think look nice). It helps like domes, reccesed, and ambiant lighting I think.

          Oh yeah electricians are allergic to DC lol (I used to be one, and yeah that was big knowledge gap in codes, breakers, etc).